Earlier this month, MAC held a press meet at its Hyderabad branch where there was an exclusive presentation by Sonic Sarwate – Global Senior Artist, MAC Cosmetics, India on makeup’s ‘All-or-Nothing’ spirit, from strong statements to confident minimalism that’s fresh, raw and radiant talked about the latest SS16 trends in makeup. He also shared some of his favorites looks inspired by the International Fashion Weeks.
Here’s a gist and some shots from the event –
There is a refreshing simplicity to beauty this season, in both literal and conceptual terms: makeup artists are either making a decisive statement that pushes one element to the extreme, or adopting a variant on “no makeup” as an equally strong and relevant style choice for SS16 trends. “You’re either doing what looks like nothing or a strong something,” summarizes Tom Pecheux.
The relative extremity of both these aesthetic options feels modern right now because they rebel against generic beauty. “It’s about rejecting the idea that beauty can be a ‘recipe’,” says Terry Barber of how makeup artists are exploring ways to elevate natural beauty while simultaneously challenging the idea of “perfection.” That an embrace of “real” beauty has been relevant for a few seasons reveals that the notion of a total seasonal “reboot” on aesthetics is a rather outmoded concept: the story of modern makeup is a conversation that evolves from one season to the next. The current debate swings away from symmetry, airbrushing or homogenized proportions and swings toward representing a confident, sentient individual whose makeup fits her face rather than clones “a look.” “It’s like a new punk attitude in that it’s a backlash, this rallying against “social media makeup,” says Val Garland. “It just feels newer to not overthink and overwork things…”
Not least because the highly embellished and feminine clothes (of which there are many for ss16) do not look particularly stylish worn with very “pretty” hair and makeup. A palette-cleansing, groomed “nothing” or a thrown-on idiosyncratic and upbeat accent of “all” on an otherwise bare face “ keeps that individuality and an element of rawness that is so essential to looking modern,” concludes Diane Kendal.
This spirit and energy very much harks back to the 90s, a decade mined this season for the independent attitude that re-imagined femininity as an unprocessed beauty. Fast-forward a couple of decades and technology brings an enriched simplicity to the rawness that was signature to those years: water-light formulas and veiled reflective pigments put a fresh, radiant skin at the core of this season’s looks.
Beauty has scrutinized various guises of minimalism for a few seasons now, but it is poignant that a pared-back feel for beauty has evolved to the point that it underpins all makeup in some way, shape or form. “Skin has to appear through everything this season for it to appear modern,” asserts Terry Barber. Whether you’re seeing makeup as an ornament to natural beauty or letting your face speak for itself, “the new eye of the makeup artist is not to put makeup everywhere,” says Lyne Desnoyers. “There is nothing contrived, produced or ‘done’ this season,” concludes Gordon Espinet. “The face is still more important than the makeup; it’s about looking like the coolest version of yourself that you can be… it’s all about the vibe.”
come as you are…
Taking the highly crafted and creative idea of facial jewellery and adornment and translating it into makeup has gained traction since last season. A kooky lash, a naïve liner, an out-there lip…these are the tweaks of stylish eccentricity. Makeup is now viewed as an alternative form of accessory, as an extension of fashion more than a beautifying tool. these supremely confident statements project an attitude of beautiful contemporaneity – they are as simple as they are emphatically bold; jolts of kaleidoscopic colour in unexpected proportions worn against a simply prepared skin are singular, uncomplicated, free of pretense…and, importantly, playful and fun. “This isn’t makeup that takes itself too seriously,” explains terry barber. “It searches for an experimental, youthful and dynamic spirit that brings a beautiful and unexpected ornamentation to the face,” agrees lyne desnoyers. “There is a real vibrancy to these looks…they’re energetic.”
vital to this beauty direction are the highly personalized accents: for the runway the colours and exact placements of the makeup were switched up to work with the individual girl’s features and the looks she was walking in. “This customization of makeup is completely related to the fact that the fashion industry’s representation of beauty has moved forwards by leaps and bounds,” says Gordon Espinet. “From the widened view of what is considered attractive (girls that twenty years ago would have been dubbed ugly are now the most cool, desirable models) to letting go of archaic standards and embracing every skin tone and ethnicity.”
Indeed, one can find myriad global influences at play behind this trend – from manga to maasai, 70s to 90s – but this makeup projects a “no concept” air as opposed to anything heavily referenced. “It’s about the classic idea of using one stand-alone element to make a makeup statement, but finding new ways to make this point,” says Val Garland
“It used to be a tan was considered the luxury summer beauty statement…now it’s incredibly good skin,” says Lyne Desnoyners of the fact that skin quality is at the core of contemporary “no-makeup makeup.” less consciously refined than the elegance that characterized pared-back makeup last season, and in line with the pervasive 90s spirit, this new approach is about invisible enhancement and accentuating. “Really, really real…better versions of themselves,” is how Val Garland describes these looks. “This is gym skin with an athletic, not cosmetic, health to it.”
“It’s approaching feminine makeup akin to the ‘grooming’ makeup we do for men,” says lisa butler, speaking of how skincare prep is intrinsically part of these new minimal makeups. and while there are nuances to “nothing” (rawness, luminosity and upgraded health being the key directions), makeup artists are unanimous in the opinion that “these looks are every woman’s idea of how she’d ideally like to look with no makeup on. there is an absolute art to treading the fine line between creating a beautiful skin and one that has enough rawness to it to be modern,” says terry barber. “call it a backlash against the social media generated looks that are so glamorous, heavily retouched, filtered and unachievable,” adds gordon espinet. “beauty now is more about subtly bringing out a spirit; it is no longer left to the makeup artist to paint a character onto the face.”
Essential, too, is the fact that artists have moved on from attempting to carve the face in contour or highlight. luminosity is the new sculpting. “we are seeing a play on light take on a super elegant rather than high-tech feel. strobe cream makes the skin appear incredibly precious and super expensive; it just looks like impeccably refined skin,” says lyne desnoyers. at its most “finished” there is an uber-version of this girl, who confidently flirts with the idea of a tan without actually looking bronzed, but regardless of the specific gradient of “nothing,” this aesthetic is ultimately about attainability. “the concept of runway-to-reality feels old now,” points out Romero Jennings. “the most important thing now is individualism and makeup that translates straight to the street.”
Here’s some of the looks Sonia created –
Post presentation, we got little lucky and had chance to chat with Sonic. While there were bunch of questions we got to ask him, my favorite of all was knowing his favorite shade of lipstick of all time.
Can you guess his answer?
Yes, like all of us, he loves Ruby Woo the most and also red color in particular.
That said, hope the information provided here gives you enough insight of the MAC SS16 trends.
On the side note, have you checked out their Liquid lipsticks from their recent collection yet?
Which one is your favorite?